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Located just a 1-hour train ride from the bustling city of Madrid, the quaint town of Cuenca offers a relaxed feel and breathtaking scenery.  This picturesque, medieval town is perched at the top of sheer rock cliffs and houses much more than its small size would suggest.    

Built originally by the Moors, the entire old town is a UNESCO heritage site with tiny, winding streets to explore and- surprisingly- a treasure trove of incredible contemporary art.  This combo makes it a unique place to visit in Spain.  

Cuenca is such a crazy blend of old and new and it works. Old convent? Let’s turn it into a modern art museum AND make it free. Hanging houses? Yup, another (free) abstract art museum. Even the stained-glass windows in the cathedral look like modern art.  And somehow it just all works. 

They didn’t tear down these gorgeous old spaces but repurposed them into something even more beautiful for the people of Cuenca. And I’m not gonna lie- it’s pretty fabulous for us tourists too. If you love exploring a small town with lots of character, great art, and a relaxed pace of life, you should consider a visit to Cuenca. 

While it’s easy to do as a day trip from Madrid, I’m glad I made it a 2 day trip to Cuenca because I loved getting lost in those tiny cobblestone streets, walking the paths along the cliff, taking my time perusing the artwork, and just soaking in the history of this place.  Cuenca is like a mini Toledo and a great way to get off the beaten path in Spain.   

WHAT TO DO IN CUENCA, SPAIN

Marvel at The Hanging Houses (Casas Colgadas)

If someone tells you that you should go to Cuenca, it’s most likely to check out the hanging houses.  These wood-beamed houses that literally hang over the side of the cliffs (scary!) were built in the 14^th century and were once used as a summer residence of the royal family. 

It’s a little cooler up here in Cuenca and since the whole city’s built on top of cliffs with a wonderful breeze, it completely makes sense.  I’d absolutely spend my summers here if I ruled the world (or Spain).  

>> There is an abstract art museum inside of one of the Hanging Houses.

Walk across San Pablo Bridge (Puente de San Pablo)

Your best view of the Hanging Houses is going to be from the San Pablo Bridge.  Just be sure not to look down if you’re afraid of heights (me, I’m talking about me).

But it’s worth the walk across because the view of the houses and the cliffs that the town is built on is best seen from the other side.  I sat there and pondered if the people who established the town were brilliant or crazy for building it at the edge of a cliff.  It hasn’t toppled off the edge yet though so I guess brilliant?

Eat at the Cuenca Parador (Parador de Cuenca)

The San Pablo Bridge will also lead you to the Parador.  This former 16^th century monastery is now a 4-star hotel with an amazing restaurant that serves traditional La Manchan cuisine.  Go check out the peaceful courtyard or the beautiful wood-coffered dining room where the monks used to dine and treat yourself to a delicious meal.

Stroll around the Plaza Mayor

A Plaza Mayor is the beating heart of any city in Spain.  It’s where everyone gathers to catch up with friends, to share gossip, and to see and be seen.  It’s the same in Cuenca.  The teens sprawl across the steps of the Cathedral during lunch hours or play soccer while dodging the locals.  

There are plenty of restaurants to grab a bite to eat for lunch but be sure you get there by 2pm or you might be out of luck if you want to eat on the plaza.  But don’t worry, there are plenty of other places around.  I promise you won’t starve.

There are also lots of cute little shops around there and along the main road.  Cuenca has ceramics shops with an artistic bent- not something just being churned out for tourists.  Maybe bring a little something home with you to remember your trip!  Just remember that Spain takes its lunch and siesta seriously so shops will close around 2-5pm every day.  

>> If you have trouble with mobility, there is a train tour that can get you to all the best sights without walking.

Climb the Triforium at the Cuenca Cathedral (Catedral de Santa Maria y San Julian de Cuenca)

You can’t miss the cathedral which dominates the Plaza Mayor.  And while it’s beautiful from the outside, I think it’s worth taking a look inside as well.  I love a view from above so I bought the combined pass that included entrance to the tower (triforio) which is a short climb, but both the view of plaza and the breeze up there are lovely.    

Cuenca is this delightful blend of old and new and it’s the same in the cathedral.  Building on it started in the year 1182.  Yes, you read that right- it’s really old!  But all the stained glass looks more like modern art than a bible lesson.  I love the creativity in this town.  

Visit a Museum (or two, or three)

Boy do the people of Cuenca love their museums.  And lots of them are free.  People come to Cuenca for the Hanging Houses, but they stay for the art. 

You can visit the inside of one of the Hanging Houses and check out the Spanish Abstract Art Museum for gorgeous views and modern art.  Espacio Torner over next to the parador is another place to see contemporary art.

The museum I enjoyed the most, however, was the Antonio Perez Foundation Museum.  It is housed in a 16^thcentury convent and has all these delightful little nooks and crannies full of fun paintings and sculptures collected by the founder.  

>> See if you can spot the Warhol painting here!

My favorite paintings were up in the attic by someone I’d never heard of but definitely want to see more of.  There is a nice courtyard at the bottom that looks out over the valley for you to take a break from all that art and enjoy the view.

In addition to the art museums, there is a Cuenca Museum near the Hanging Houses with archeological items from the area.  If you head south, there is a museum dedicated to holy week and also a science museum.  Seriously, a plethora of museums!      

Take a Hike

When you come, be sure to bring some comfy shoes because there are paths all around Cuenca.  It’s fun trying to figure out which gives you the best views.  The most well-known path is the Paseo de Jucar which runs along the far side of the Jucar River at the bottom of the west side of town.  

But there are plenty of short paths that run along the top of the cliffs on both sides as well.  I took the path from the hanging houses up to the castle ruins.  You’ll find all sorts of ruins along the way and the views just get better and better the further up you go.   

Enjoy the Peace and Quiet at the Plaza de Merced

Plaza de Merced is a pleasant little plaza and where the science museum is located.  It has hands-on science displays in a lovely old building as well as an observatory and planetarium.  

I, however, just sat on the steps of the Convento de la Merced for a bit and enjoyed the peacefulness of the plaza. The Hospederia Seminario Conciliar de San Juan is located (details below in the hotels section) in this pleasant plaza as well.

Explore Different Cultures in the Plaza de Mangana

The Mangana Tower (Torre de Mangana) tells time over a modernist-inspired plaza.  There are excavated and preserved remains of different cultures over the centuries including an Arab citadel and the Jewish quarter.  

From the square, you can enjoy the view out over the countryside and wonder what life was like back when these cultures were there.    

Find the Best Sunset View

Sunset- and sunrise if that’s your thing- is absolutely spectacular here.  For the best view of the sun setting behind the town, follow the road up to the top of the town past the castle ruins to one of the viewpoints (miradors).  From there, you can take one of the paths out to the edge of the rocks.  Just be sure to watch your step- especially once it gets dark.  

There are also some great places nearby to grab a tapa after the sun goes down.  I had a fabulous lunch at Restaurante El Torreón and kicked myself for not stopping off there for a little something in the evening too. Next time…  

Explore other Places around Cuenca

If you’re staying several days and you’d like to see more of the La Mancha area, there are several places nearby that are worth going.  You can check them out on your own if you have a rental car or you can book a tour through Get Your Guide.  

The big one is, of course, Madrid which is just an hour away by train. There you can find a bustling city full of character and plenty of activities to keep you busy.

Serranía de Cuenca (30 minutes north) has interesting rock formations and rivers if you’d like to get out there and do some hiking.  The two most popular areas are Enchanted City and Devil’s Window.  

If you’d rather see a castle, try Belmonte with its well-preserved 15^th century castle or the 8^th century village of Alarcon with its castle that has been turned into a paraador (both about 1 hour south).

For a longer trip, head east to Albarracín (2 hours by car).  This picturesque town has pink houses (cute!) and boasts towers dating from the time when Muslims lived there.  

HOTELS IN CUENCA, SPAIN

The most convenient area to stay (and the prettiest) is in the old town area around the Plaza Mayor.  There are lots of beautiful old hotels with gorgeous views out over the gorge.   

Parador de Cuenca 4✩
I’ve always wanted to stay in a parador which is a historical building that has been repurposed by the Spanish government as a luxury hotel.  This one is in a monastery built in the 1500s.  The dining room is in the beautiful old refectory, so you get to eat where the monks did.  

Hotel Convento del Giraldo 4✩
A lovely hotel in a great location- their restaurant, Fiola Gastropub, is my favorite place for tapas.  Charming rooms full of character with a nice breakfast.  It even has a spa if you need a little pampering after all that sightseeing.   

Hotel Leonor de Aquitania 3✩
This is where I stayed and it couldn’t have been more perfect.  I got a large room with a balcony that overlooked the surrounding hills and the parador.  In the morning, I literally threw open the doors like I was a princess in a Disney movie to view to the gorgeous sunrise.  
The location was fantastic, there was also a good breakfast, and the staff was very helpful.  And, being a small town and all, it wasn’t too expensive.  I would absolutely recommend it.      

Hospederia Seminario Conciliar de San Julián 2✩
Located on the lovely little Plaza de Merced, this hotel offers breakfast, family rooms, and an airport shuttle from Madrid if you should need it.    

Posada San Jose 2✩
This hotel might have the best breakfast view in town overlooking the Huécar River and the Parador through big, bright windows.  Located in a 17^th century monastery, it has a restaurant, garden, and meals on the terrace in nice weather.     

🏨 For more hotel options in Cuenca, Spain, check out Booking.com

RESTAURANTS IN CUENCA, SPAIN

In Spain, people traditionally eat what grows nearby.  This area of Spain is known for its saffron, manchengo cheese, bean stews, sausage, pork, olives, and marzipan.   

Finding the best places to eat isn’t too hard.  Just look for the places that are full of people.  If a restaurant is empty during a mealtime, believe me, there’s a reason.  Keep in mind that mealtimes in Spain are different from other countries.  They take siesta seriously here- especially in the smaller towns- and if you want to eat lunch at noon, you’ll be outta luck.    

💧 Yes, you can drink the tap water in Spain.  There are even lots of old fountains (fuente) where you can refill your water bottle along the way.

If you want to plan ahead for some delicious food in Cuenca, here are some suggestions.    

Restaurante el Torreón  
I had a really fantastic lunch here for $20 and it was money verrry well spent.  Located at the top of town with a view of the hills, it would be a great place to go after watching the sunset for a tapa or two also.  
It was an absolutely perfect sunny day, so I sat outside for the view and ordered the menu del dia.  It came with a glass of beer, a yummy little lettuce taco as an appetizer, then I picked the bread soup (sopa castillana), the pork chops (chuletillas), and the custard (natilla) and they were all fabulous.  After I ate and drank all that, I rolled myself down the hill for a long siesta in my hotel.  When in Spain…  

Piola Gastrobar
I went here both nights for “dinner” before I hit the sack at 10pm when everyone else was heading out to dinner.  I can’t make myself stay up until midnight to eat.  I just can’t.  And one three course meal per day at lunch is enough for me anyway.   

I ordered a Tinto de Verano and the bartender made it extra special with a little vermouth- yum.  As they do in Spain, each drink came with a tapa- very tasty chicken wings the first night and fish sticks the second and so my “dinner” was $3.50 each night.  

Raff San Pedro
I was dying to try this one-star Michelin restaurant located in the former stables at my hotel but unfortunately it was closed the two days I was there.  But maybe you can try it for me.  It serves updated traditional cuisine with a set menu for $65 (there’s also an à la carte menu) and it looks absolutely amazing.        

Parador de Cuenca
The Parador serves traditional Manchengan food in a gorgeous setting.  Specializing in local lamb and game dishes, homemade Manchengo cheeses, roasted peppers, cod stew, Cuencan cake (alajú), and a caramel mousse (tocinillo de cielo).   

Grotte del Huécar
This restaurant is in a cave at the southern end of town on the other side of the river.  Yes, you heard me right- a cave.  They have tapas and burgers topped with cotton candy and there is also a terrasse up the stairs.

TRANSPORTATION

Getting to Cuenca

It is about 1 hour from Madrid to Cuenca via the fast train which will drop you at Estación de Cuenca-Fernando Zóbel.  From there, it’s a 15 minute ($17) taxi ride from the old town area.  Alternatively, you could take Bus #1 to old town (30 minutes/$3) instead of a taxi.

🚃 Use Omio to figure out your best way to get from here to there!

Slower trains arrive at the Cuenca station which is a 30 minute walk straight uphill to old town (or Bus #1 takes 15 minutes). The bus from Madrid is about a 2 hour ride and drops you near the Cuenca train station.

If you have a car, it takes about 2 hours to drive to Cuenca from Madrid.

🚗 Looking to rent a car in Spain? Discover Cars can help!   

Getting around Cuenca

If you stay in the old town, you can get pretty much anywhere by walking.  It’s only about half a mile from the Torre de Mangana up to the perfect sunset view.  The only time I didn’t walk getting to and from the train station.  But if you need it, there is a bus that goes up the main road to the top of town.  

Ready to plan your trip?  
Here are my favorite travel websites to get you started.
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✈️ Flights  🏨 Hotels  🚃 Transportation 
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QUESTIONS ABOUT CUENCA, SPAIN

Where is Cuenca?
It’s in the La Mancha area of central Spain and is smackdab in-between Madrid and Valencia so it could be a nice stopover for a night or two traveling between them.  Or it could be a day trip from either.  

What’s the weather like in Cuenca?
It’s a few degrees cooler than Madrid which means it ranges from 90°F on a summer afternoon to 32°F on a cold winter morning.  My favorite time to visit is the shoulder seasons of fall and spring.

What should I pack for Cuenca?
The most important things you should pack for Cuenca, Spain is a pair of comfy shoes for exploring, a reusable water bottle, and a good appetite.  See my packing guide to be sure you have just enough stuff with room leftover for souvenirs. 

How long to spend in Cuenca?
You can absolutely do a day trip to Cuenca, Spain from either Madrid or Valencia since it’s an hour by train from either.  But I suggest spending at least one night so you don’t miss out on the amazing sunset over the town!

Is Cuenca, Spain worth visiting?
I’d give this an absolute yes!  If you love art, history, and unique towns off the beaten path with a homey feel, Cuenca is absolutely worth visiting.  It is very safe and perfect for solo travel in Spain.  I hope this article has inspired you to check it out.  

What are some other great places to visit around Cuenca? 
I absolutely adore Spain and always start planning my next trip before I even get home.  See my Spain page for itineraries, city guides, food guides, and tips about language, money, weather, packing, and all the things to get you prepared and excited for your trip.  

There are lots of beautiful and interesting towns near Madrid, Spain that are worth a visit.  If you’re looking for one that is chock full of history, contemporary art, surrounded by nature, and is easy to get to, then Cuenca might be the perfect place for you to experience small town Spain.