Things to Do in Gjirokastër: Your Ultimate Guide

If you’re planning a trip to Albania and thinking only about the beaches, stop right there. Yes, the Albanian Riviera is amazing, but let me show you a charming little town that completely stole my heart: Gjirokastër.

Tucked away in the mountains of southern Albania, this city feels like stepping into a time capsule. Known as the “City of Stone,” Gjirokastër is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that combines Ottoman-era architecture, dramatic landscapes, and deep cultural roots and is the perfect place to visit on your road trip around Albania.  

But this is not just a beautiful city.  You’ll find plenty of things to do in Gjirokastër besides just admiring the view.  It has been home to poets, revolutionaries, and writers. In fact, it’s the birthplace of both Ismail Kadare, Albania’s most famous author, and Enver Hoxha, the country’s former communist leader.

Whether you’re a history buff, a fan of gorgeous mountain views, or just want a laid-back, charming cobblestone village to wander aimlessly, Gjirokastër should be on your must-visit list.

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Things to Do in Gjirokastër

Built on a steep (very steep) hillside, this traditional Albanian village’s signature grey stone houses seem to cascade down the mountain. The atmosphere is both romantic and timeless.  You could spend your time here just taking in the view but there’s much more to Gjirokastër than just that.

Check out some of the amazing things to do in Gjirokastër on your visit to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Gjirokastër Bazaar

There’s nothing I love more than wandering- and Gjirokastër old town was made for that.  Its narrow cobblestone streets wind past picturesque white stone buildings draped in ancient grapevines.  

During the day, this area is bustling.  It is lined with shops where you can find handmade rugs, copperware, antiques, and local crafts to bring home.  There are also restaurants full of locals and tourists enjoying a raki or a leisurely lunch of qofte and laknur with a glass of wine.

But my favorite time to explore is in the morning before the rest of the tourists are up.  I love when it’s just me and a bunch of old men enjoying a morning coffee while gossiping with the café owners.  It feels like a secret that only I know about.  Give it a try when you go. 

Gjirokastër Castle

Set atop the massive hilltop, Gjirokastër Castle is one of the largest in the Balkans and the biggest Gjirokastër attraction.  Inside you’ll find military exhibits, weaponry, and even a captured U.S. plane from the Cold War.  

But you’ll find the best part of visiting this castle outside.  From this vantage point, you have sweeping views out over the Drino Valley, surrounding mountains, and down into Gjirokastër bazaar.  Time your visit for sunset for the best photo ops and a fabulous breeze.

Ethnographic Museum

What’s an ethnographic museum?  Rather than just displaying old artifacts, they aim to explain the cultural relevance and history behind them.  In Albania, that means talking about the different ethnic groups within the country and how they have each affected modern Albania.  

This museum, housed in the former home of communist leader Enver Hoxha, is filled with clothing, tools, and furniture to give you a feel for what it was like to live in one of these traditional stone houses.

Ismail Kadare’s House (Shtepia Muze)

Famed Albanian author Ismail Kadare was born in Gjirokastër and you can visit the place he grew up.  You can find some of his books on my list of Books and Movies to Watch for your Trip to Albania including The Fall of the Stone City which takes place in Gjirokastër.

Skënduli House

This old mansion right next to the Ethnographic Museum is a great option if you don’t have the time or inclination to make it to the Zekate House.  It is also an Ottoman era home that will give you a window into the past which makes it one of the best things to go in Gjirokastër.  

Zekate House (& Bar)

This beautiful Ottoman mansion on the hill gives you a sense of how wealthy families once lived. With its fortified walls, beautiful painted ceilings, and panoramic views, the Zekate House is a great place to check out. 🍷 There’s also a bar where you can grab a drink while you’re there.

Bazaar Mosque

When I travel, I always like to visit places of worship- churches, temples, mosques- and they are a great place to get a little peace and quiet on your trip.  Even if you don’t go inside, it’s lovely to grab a bite to eat as the sun goes down and listen to the call to prayer drift over the valley from this mosque in the Gjirokastër bazaar.

Cold War Tunnels

Underneath the castle, you can find a woman set up in front of a Cold War Tunnel lined with artifacts inside.  When I was there it cost 100 lek to go in and check it out. Or head to the Cold War Museum which is similar.

Cold War Bunkers

Communist leader Hoxha built hundreds of thousands of bunkers around the Albania during the Cold War- lots of which you can find on Google Maps.  The most I saw in one place were in the Llogara National Parkdeep in the forest.  They all had happy faces painted on them.

Things to Do near Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër has plenty to keep you busy but there are many other places nearby that are perfect for a day trip.  It’s easiest with a rental car but you can also take a tour to help you explore this area of Albania.

>>If you’re traveling solo, tours are a great way to meet other travelers!

Gjirokastër is surrounded by beautiful landscape and you should definitely get out there and see it- river rafting and horseback riding tours are a great way to see the countryside.

The Blue Eye (Syri I Kaltër) natural spring is absolutely gorgeous and only a short 45 minute drive away.  The Blue Eye Albania opening hours are 8:00-20:00.  

And psst… there’s another Blue Eye near Theth that has a waterfall and you can actually swim in!

A 1 hour drive northeast of Gjirokastër is Permet where you’ll find natural thermal baths at the foot of an ancient Ottoman bridge.  

🚗 Looking to rent a car? Just click HERE for the best deals in your area.   

If you’re after beaches, Ksamil is a little over 1 hour southwest.  And Butrint is just minutes away if you want to check out some ancient Roman ruins while you’re there.

Known as the “City of a Thousand Windows”, the UNESCO city of Berat is a great place to visit 2 ½ hours’ drive north.

>> If you’re traveling solo, tours are a great way to meet other travelers. 👋

Places to Stay in Gjirokastër

There are three areas you can stay in Gjirokastër- the top of town near Gjirokastër castle, in the old town near the Gjirokastër bazaar, or in the newer part of town at the bottom.

If you stay up near the castle, you’ll have amazing views out over the town and valley.  If you stay in the old town, you’ll be near all the best places to eat and things to do.  And the new part of town is less expensive if you’re watching your pennies.  But really, the town is small so you’ll be fine no matter where you stay as long as you don’t mind the hills.    

💰 Cash is still king in Albania.  Some of the hotels and restaurants take credit cards but lots still don’t (or charge extra for it) so be sure you have cash on hand.  

The best places to stay in Gjirokastër are guesthouses run by local families. Many of them are restored old stone homes with wooden balconies and delicious, homemade breakfast spreads. You’ll probably pay less than you expect, and the hospitality is better than any 5-star place I’ve stayed in.  

🏨 Check out Booking.com for more hotel options at all different price points

Here are some places that I recommend:  

Silver Hill Guesthouse
This is where I stayed.  I loved the personal touch (and home-cooked breakfast- yum) it offers.  The hotel guy here was entirely unimpressed with my driving abilities and parked my car for me- whew!  

Old Bazaar 1790
In a restored Ottoman-era house, this guesthouse is where I almost stayed.  It’s a great location with beautiful, traditional interiors and a little more upscale.

Kerkulla Resort
If you’re looking for a modern resort to stay in instead of a guesthouse, check out this place that offers a swimming pool and gym in pretty fabulous digs.

Stone City Hostel
This is the place if you’re looking to save money on accommodations.  It gets good reviews and the location is great.

Best Restaurants in Gjirokastër

I love the food in Albania.  It’s a little like Greek- all fresh veggies and feta- with some Italian and Turkish thrown in.  You’ll find lots of family-run restaurants and cozy little cafes around town.    

Wondering what to eat in Gjirokastër?  This town is famous for qifqi which are breaded rice balls (like Italian arancini if you know them) mixed with herbs.  Give them a try if you see them on the menu.

👩‍🍳  If you’re looking to learn about traditional Albanian food, take a cooking class while you’re there!

Komiteti
This place is on a really cool section of cobblestone path lined with outdoor tables on both sides.  The inside is pretty too if the weather isn’t cooperating.  A great place to grab either dinner or just a drink to start your night.

Vëllezërit Vasi
This restaurant is in a quieter location with a nice view out over the town.  They have qifqi on the menu and the beet salad was pretty delish.  

Kujtimi
Shaded by a massive tree, this is a wonderful place to enjoy a leisurely lunch out of the hot sun.  Just don’t feed the cats or you’ll get in trouble- haha 🐈  

Kashahu Kafe
On the main thoroughfare, you can get a drink and a good appetizer plate with a variety of Albanian foods to try at this place.  Take your time and people watch in this bustling location.    

Transportation around Gjirokastër 

How to Get to Gjirokastër 

You can either fly into Tirana (or there will be an airport near Vlorë soon), take a ferry from Italy or Corfu, or drive overland from Greece, Macedonia, Montenegro, or Kosovo. 

✈️ Looking for flights? Check HERE for all your options!

By car, Gjirokastër is about 3 ½ hours from Tiranë or 1 ½ from Sarandë.  The roads wind through the mountains so the view is absolutely lovely.  Once you arrive in town, you can park either at your hotel or in the free parking lots around town.  

Honestly, I was terrified to drive around Albania after hearing the horror stories of crazy drivers, but after you get the hang of it, it’s completely fine- take it from a certified nervous driver. If I can do it, so can you.

🚗 Looking to rent a car? Just click HERE for the best deals in your area.   

Your other option is to take a bus (furgon) from one of the towns.  They’re a lot less reliable and pretty much just leave whenever they have enough passengers so if you want to be able to come and go as you please and stick to a schedule, you’re better off with a car. If you do come by bus, you’ll arrive into the Gjirokastër Bus Station at the bottom of town.

How to Get around Gjirokastër 

It’s a small town so you’ll be able to just walk around Gjirokastër unless you want to explore out of town.  Be forewarned, however, that the hills are steep.

What to Pack for Gjirokastër 

Be sure you have shoes that won’t slip- those gorgeous stone roads are slippery.  Sneakers are best- even my Chacos slipped sometimes on the steeper parts.  

>> Not sure what to bring? Check out my packing tips to make it super easy! 🧳

If you’re here in summer, a reusable water bottle is a good idea- those hills are no joke.  I love my Nalgene one the best.  I just bought a giant bottle of water from the store and kept refilling my Nalgene with it.  

💧 The water is NOT safe to drink in Albania so be sure you only drink bottled.

And it does cool down at night- it’s in the mountains after all- so bring something to keep you warm when the sun goes down.

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Questions about Gjirokastër

Is Albania expensive?
By most European standards, Albania is not expensive- for now.  They are starting to understand that tourists will pay more so get there before the prices go up!

Is Albania safe?
I felt absolutely safe in all of Albania- even solo.  Of course, you should always take the normal precautions but I found Albanians to be helpful and kind and I never once felt unsafe (except maybe driving on the mountain roads- but that’s a whole different thing).    

Gjirokastër is one of those places you visit without big expectations- and then totally fall for. It’s laid-back, full of character, and just feels special. If you’re in Albania, it’s 100% worth the stop. If you’re not yet- well, maybe it’s time to plan that trip.  Let me know how I can help.
Happy travels… 🏰 ⛰️🇦🇱🇦🇱