Tucked away in the heart of the Albanian Alps in northern Albania, Theth village is one of those magical places that feels like a well-kept secret. Surrounded by towering peaks, rushing rivers, and charming stone houses, this little village is the perfect escape if you’re craving fresh mountain air and a slower pace of life.
Whether you’re hiking through Valbona Pass, chasing waterfalls, or just soaking up the views, Theth village offers a stunning slice of northern Albania that’s well worth the journey to get there.
If you’re looking for dramatic landscapes and off-the-beaten-path adventures, be sure to add Theth to your northern Albania itinerary.
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Northern Albania
I never expected to fall so hard for northern Albania. It feels like a quieter, more affordable version of the Swiss Alps or the Italian Dolomites. Everywhere you look is pure beauty- and that’s especially true in Theth village.
Theth is a full sensory experience. You’ll hear the soft baa-ing of sheep, the occasional neigh of a horse, and most of all, the steady rush of the river that winds through the village. It smells like woodsmoke and wild mint crushed underfoot as you hike. You’ll feel the cool mist from the waterfall on your skin and the satisfying chill of a Korça beer after a long day on the trail.
But more than anything, Theth is about feeling of gratitude, peace, and awe for this place that still feels wild and untouched.
The Drive to Theth
Part of the fun of Theth is getting there. The drive offers absolutely breathtaking views. Thankfully, there are many pull-offs along the way where you can get out and admire the view so be sure to take advantage of them.
If you’re coming from Shkoder, take a short break from all those hairpin turns in Qafe e Terthores (Qafë-Thora) and take in the spectacular view. Then steel yourself because the curves only get curvier as you go down the other side… 🚗 ⛰️
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Things to Do in Theth Village
Theth village is small it doesn’t take long at all to see what’s there. There is a visitor center right next to the bridge that leads into town but it was closed when I was there in early May. I have a feeling it’s seasonal like many of the cafes that I saw that weren’t open for the season yet.
Kisha e Thethit (Theth Church)
If you’ve seen photos of Theth village, it’s most likely been a photo of this interesting church. Kisha e Thethit is located in the middle of the village, surrounded by guesthouses and some fields of goats and beautiful wildflowers.
The inside is not quite as interesting but it’s worth a look inside just because.
Reconciliation Tower
Also called the Lock-in Tower, Reconciliation Tower is an interesting peek into past mountain culture.
Villagers used to live by a code that said if someone in your clan was killed or dishonored in some way, you were required to take an eye for an eye. The purpose of these reconciliation towers was to keep someone safe while either one of his family killed off all of the people who wanted to kill him or until they reconciled.
>> Check out the movie The Forgiveness of Blood for a look into this practice.
There is only one way in or out on the bottom floor and no way to access the top floors so the person inside was considered safe as long as they stayed inside. I bet they were bored out of their minds though.
I think during the high season they charge for entry, but no one was there when I went (at the beginning of May) so it cost me nothing.
Inside, you’ll climb up ladders to find traditional furnishings and a lovely view out over the village and across the valley.
Theth River
This beautiful river has plenty of paths to walk alongside it if you just want to take a stroll to the sound of rushing water. Stop and admire the gorgeous clear water and soak in the dramatic landscape around you.
You’ll probably also see the local horses wandering around and munching on grasses here. If you’re lucky, there will be some baby ones (they’re so cute!).
Hiking near Theth
Although the mountains are gorgeous to look at, it’s really the hiking that draws people here. Whether you want something easy for a day hike or want to spend days (or weeks) camping in this gorgeous area of northern Albania, there is something here for everyone.
Grunas Waterfall
The day hike to Grunas Waterfall is about 4 miles out and back from Theth village depending on where you start. Just follow the gravel path and stay right. Look for the red+white trail blazes and be sure to follow them.
When you cross the river on the red bridge (you’ll know it when you see it), take the left fork and head up the mountain for a short but tough climb and you’ll be rewarded by the falls.
Be warned that it’s a little chilly and definitely wet there at the bottom of Grunas Waterfall so you might want to pack a rain jacket if you’re there at the beginning or end of the season.
If you want to turn this into a longer hike, you can cross the river at the bottom of the waterfall and continue on to the Theth Blue Eye (more on it below).
Goat Bridge
If you want a different view of the valley and Grunas Waterfall (and an easier hike), follow the trail to the Goat Bridge instead by taking the right fork after you cross the red bridge.
It’s a nice, easy amble along a path that takes you past some farms as you hear the tinkle of sheep bells and a babbling creek until you reach the bridge. It is the most rickety bridge I’ve ever seen with giant gaps between the boards and it moves when you step on it.
The girl ahead of me crawled across- haha. But she’s braver than me because I just turned around. It was getting late in the day and I’m a wimp. It was a lovely little amble through the valley after I visited Grunas Waterfall though and I’m glad I went to check it out.
Nanreth Loop
The 4 ½ mile Nanreth Loop is a popular hike that’s moderately difficult. It has waterfalls, some rock scrambling, and gorgeous views. It should take about 3 hours with a couple of stops along the way. Be sure to do it clockwise so you’re going down on the hard part rather than having to scramble up it.
Gjecaj Waterfall
Just a 10 minute stroll from Theth village, the pretty Gjecaj Waterfall is visible from the road (I almost drove off the side looking at it as I passed). Feel free to take a dip on the freezing cold water if you dare!
Syri Kaltër (Theth Blue Eye)
Southern Albania isn’t the only place with a Blue Eye. The Syri Kaltër– or Theth Blue Eye- is another place to experience one of these natural wonders. And you can swim in this one!
You can visit this gorgeous place by hiking to it from Theth village which is 11 miles round trip. Or you can do what I did and drive to the bottom of the hike and go from there.
You’ll start out by driving about 20 minutes from Theth to Nderlysaj where you’ll park at the bottom of the trail. From there, it’s a 4 mile out and back.
Follow the gravel path and just make sure to keep the river on your left as you start out (don’t go across the wooden bridge at the beginning). It will take you up to a road.
The path is not really well marked but if you search them out, you will see red and white blazes that lead the way. Sometimes they are down the path a bit, on the wrong side of the rock, or faded but they are there if you look for them.
Follow that wide, mostly flat road left until it forks. Then you’ll take the right fork up the mountain. Eventually you’ll come to a bridge that crosses over clear water and you think you might be there- but keep going because it gets better.
Hike another 5 minutes and you’re finally at the Syri Kaltër. You can take path on the left through the field and take the super scary bridge across the top of it. Or you can take the trail on the right that takes you down to the lagoon at the bottom of it. I suggest you check them both out.
At the bottom, you can actually swim in that gorgeous freezing cold water if you want. When you’ve had your fill, turn around and go back the way you came.
There are well-equipped restaurants by the parking lot if you want to grab a bite to eat before or after your hike. I had a great lunch at one of them but actually wish I’d had my guesthouse just make me a box lunch because I would have loved to stay longer at the Blue Eye.
There is also a place to get a cold drink on the way to the Syri Kaltër and a small café next to it but neither of those were open when I was there at the very beginning of the season.
Longer Hikes near Theth
This part of Albania is literally covered in gorgeous terrain and I definitely wish I’d had more time to explore it. I would have really loved to do the challenging 9 mile Theth to Valbona Hike which takes you across the most amazing mountain peaks in northern Albania.
You can do the Theth to Valbona hike on your own or with a guide. Just make sure you’re extra prepared if you go on your own. The weather can change in an instant and there are no helicopter rescues around here! 🚁
Other Places in Northern Albania
Aside from hiking around Theth, there are some other places in northern Albania that are worth a look.
Komani Lake
If you’re wanting to spend time on a lake in northern Albania, a gorgeous place to visit is Komani Lake. There is a ferry that runs between Komani and Fierza with incredible views. You can go either with or without a car if you’d like to do it on your own. Or you can do a boat tour on this gorgeous lake.
Lumi i Shalës (Shala River)
Another fun thing to do in northern Albania is spend a day at the Shala River (Lumi i Shalës) which is an absolutely beautiful crystal clear river with pebble beaches. If you didn’t know better, you might think it was the one of the Albanian Riveria beaches instead of a river.
>> If you’re traveling solo, tours are a great way to meet other travelers. 👋
Shkoder
Chances are that if you’re going to Theth, you’ll be driving through Shkoder- but don’t just pass through. This small city is a wonderful place to spend a few days and I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked it.
It’s all about café culture there and had a bit of a different vibe than other places in Albania. It’s always interesting to me how different places can be that are so close to one another.
Kruje
The lovely little mountain village of Kruje is near Tirana and is a great alternative to staying in Tirana before your flight home. Alternatively, you can visit as a day trip from Tirana.
The picturesque bazaar is a great place to grab some last minute souvenirs and there is a castle to visit. But the best thing about Kruje is the views out over the valley.
Places to Stay in Theth
The best place to stay in Theth is in the southern part of Theth village- near Theth Church and Reconciliation Tower. From there, you’ll be able to walk to see these sights. There are also several day hikes that start from this end as well- including to Grunas Waterfall and the Nanreth Loop.
That said, the areas around here are covered in guesthouses so as long as you factor in transportation time to what you want to see and do, you’ll be fine. There is a lot of building going on here with some newer guesthouses coming in.
I also saw lots of people camping so that is an option if you are into roughing it. Not me though, haha.
🏨 Check HERE for more hotel options at all different price points
Here are some places to stay in Theth that I recommend:
Shpella Guesthouse
Shpella Guesthouse is a classic backpacker haven and has everything you might need including friendly staff, free breakfast, a restaurant, bar, and foosball.
Villa Golden Theth
This family friendly hotel has a restaurant as well as a hot tub to soak away those tired muscles from hiking all day.
Guesthouse Prrockaj
Along with hotel rooms, this place offers chalets if you want a little more privacy on your stay.
Where to Eat in Theth
Like the rest of Albania, Theth has amazing food. It’s close to Greece and Italy so it’s influenced by them both and you’ll be sure to find something you like.
Up here in the mountains, it’s definitely more meat focused than other places in Albania. This is where you’ll find those comforting stews and casseroles like Tavë Kosi (a lamb and rice casserole) and Çumlek (a beef and onion stew). They’re delicious and rejuvenating after a long day of hiking.
The guesthouses will have restaurants for your meals. They can usually even make you a box lunch to take out hiking with you.
There are a few other places around where you can get a bite to eat if you’re not staying somewhere with a restaurant. And, of course, you’re welcome to grab lunch or dinner at a different place than the guesthouse you’re staying in.
💧 Don’t drink the water here because it can make you sick. I bought one huge bottle and used it to refill my smaller, reusable bottle throughout my trip.
When I was there at the very start of the season in early May, everything wasn’t open quite yet so keep that in mind depending on when you’re going.
I ate my meals at Shpella Guesthouse where I stayed. For breakfast, they had a small buffet of boiled eggs, cheese, fruit, breads and always a delicious breakfast cake. Dinner was really good ( loved the stuffed peppers) and they had a cozy fire going inside. I can imagine in the heat of summer that the outdoor dining is atmospheric.
Transportation around Theth
Getting to Theth
International flights will arrive into Tirana. You could also come by ferry from Corfu or Italy or overland from one of the surrounding countries.
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From Tirana, it’s about a 3½ hour drive to Theth (2 from Shkoder). It will be longer if you’re stopping to admire the view along the way- and you absolutely should!
The easiest way to get to Theth, and to get around, is by renting a car. There are some buses- but they tend to consider departure time to be a vague estimate.
If you’re coming straight from Theth airport, there is a tollbooth about 5 minutes from the airport so be sure you have some Albanian lek on you! Just use one of the ATMs at the airport over by the check-in counters.
🚗 Looking to rent a car? Just click HERE for the best deals in your area.
If you don’t want to rent a car, your other option is to travel to Theth on a tour.
Check out all your options to discover Theth from Tirana, Shkoder, and other places. There are options for a 1-day trip up to 4 days full of hiking, boating, waterfall exploring, and seeing the sights 🥾 🛶
Getting around Theth
Theth village is tiny and you can walk it all in no time at all. If you’re wanting to see the surrounding countryside, you can hike or drive. You can also hire a taxi- just ask your guesthouse for help.
What to Pack for Theth
People generally come to Theth to hike and spend time in the mountains so it’s important to be prepared.
Shoes that you can hike in are a must. If you’re just doing day hikes on gravel paths (to Grunas Waterfall or the Theth Blue Eye for example), tennis shoes with good tread are OK to wear. I wore my trail running shoes and they mostly worked fine- although next time I would probably bring actual hiking boots.
If you’re going to be doing more challenging hikes, however, hiking boots are an absolute necessity. You don’t want to be stranded when you turn your ankle or smash your toe on a rock. Merrell fits my feet well but there are lots of options.
You should also be sure to bring a water bottle and something to eat.
Sunscreen is a good idea as well. The mediterranean sun is strong and you don’t want to be sunburned and in pain during your trip.
There are no helicopter rescues here so be prepared with any first aid items you might need.
Want a checklist of all the things you need in a backpack for your day hike? Lucky you- there’s one in my ⭐️Travel Resource Library⭐️. Just join my email list for access to the checklist, plus many more resources that help make travel super easy.
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Questions about Theth
Is there an ATM in Theth?
There is now an ATM in Theth and I used it to get money so I know it works. You’ll find it at the Hotel Jezerca. My guesthouse wanted me to pay in cash so this was really helpful.
When should I visit Theth?
The high season is July and August when there are more tourists and even though it’s the mountains it can get pretty hot so you might want to come outside of those months if you can. A lot of places are only open during the summer season and close down the rest of the year. So be sure you take a look at guesthouse and restaurants before you book that flight.
Is Albania expensive?
Compared with western Europe, Albania is fairly inexpensive. But go quick before it gets discovered and the prices start going up!
Is Albania safe for women?
Albania is incredibly safe and makes a fantastic destination for a solo trip in Europe. Like anywhere, it’s smart to take the usual precautions, but I personally felt completely comfortable and secure everywhere I went. If you want more tips on how to stay safe while traveling solo, be sure to check out my guide to Solo Travel Safety Tips for Women.
If you’re looking for a place with dramatic views, a slow pace, and feels like a secret that only you know about, put Theth on your northern Albania itinerary.
Happy travels… ⛰️ 🥾 🇦🇱
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